Luxury Vinyl Installation

Before you begin

  • Do not install cabinets or fixed objects on top of the floor
  • All sub-floors must be clean, flat (smooth), and dry prior to installation
  • High or low area’s exceeding 3/16” in a 10’ radium must be corrected
  • Pull planks from a minimum of 3 different boxes during installation to assure an even distribution of any minor color variations and slight differences in embossing levels.
  • Leave a ¼” (6mm) expansion gap around the entire perimeter of the installation and any transitions to adjacent flooring materials.


  1. Begin by measuring the width of the room and divide the total width of the room by the width of the plank.  Adjust the first-row width so that you finish with at least a half a width of a plank on the far wall.
  2. Set up a starting line for the first row by measuring the width of the (adjusted) plank.  Add ¼” (6mm) to this number and mark the floor at each end of your starting wall, approximately 6” (150 mm) away from the corners.
  3. Using a chalk-line carefully snap a line between these 2 points.  Check to make sure there will be approximately ¼” (6mm) between the edge of your first row of planks and the wall.  This will be covered by the baseboard &/or quarter-round.
  4. Lay the first row of the planks, the short tongue should be facing the wall.  First row should start ¼” (6mm) from the wall.  Cut the last plank to finish ¼” (6mm) from opposite wall.  We recommend that you use temporary spacers to keep the floors away from the walls, as the floor will shift during installation due to it being a floating floor.  Place spacers every 2-3’ along the starting wall, plus at the end of each of the starting rows so panels do not shift when set into place.
  5. Assemble the end joints by inserting the tongue on the short side of the plank at an angle of approximately 25 degrees, and lower it into place.  Continue in this manner until the first row is complete.
  6. To start the second row, use the remainder of the last plank of the first row if it is longer than 12” long, otherwise, cut a new plank in half and proceed.  To ensure structural integrity of your floor, it is mandatory to ALWAYS STAGGER THE END JOINTS FROM ROW TO ROW BY AT LEAST 8” (20cm).
  7. Install one plank at a time, so that the end with the large lip is exposed to receive the next plank.  Using a tapping block gently tap on the block until the ends of the planks lock together and repeat for rest of row.  Do NOT use too much force when tapping the planks together, as this may damage the locking profile.  For final piece in row, use a pry-bar to pull it tight and lock the end profiles.  Do NOT strike directly on the locking profile to tap the pieces together, as this may damage the locking profile.
  8. In the case where you are unable to angle the planks (i.e. under a doorframe or radiator), you can cut away the locking edge of the lip of the bottom groove by using a utility knife.  Run a bead of Seam Sealer on the now modified tongue and groove.  Tighten the planks gently with the use of a pull bar and a rubber mallet
  9. If a doorframe must be undercut, lay a piece of flooring next to the doorframe with the patterned side facing down.  Undercut the doorjamb with a saw, then slide the plank under the doorjamb with decorative pattern facing upwards.  Please note that the floor must be allowed to expand under the doorjamb and recommended expansion gap must be repeated. 
  10. Ensure there is a minimum ¼” (6mm) gap around the entire floor perimeter and any obstacles.  Measure and cut the last panels to fit so that there is a minimum ¼” (6mm) gap along the last wall.